Region: San Juan Chivite
This also goes by Chivite and we had it a couple of years ago. It is a study in brightness, tang and vibrancy. The aroma is laden with lemongrass and chocolate. The flavor jumps right in with a frontal assault of lemon/lime tartness like the first eye watering bite of a stunningly made key lime pie. Bitterness is very tame but there is pith astringency to balance out the sweet citrus marmalade notes. Those notes give way to a leathery earthiness and creamy resolution.
At the end you are left with a viscous, thick, bright but complex acidity worth of another bite or three.
I think this would be incredibly fun as a milk chocolate and also as a mixed roast dark, keeping one roast very bright and tangy (EOR 245-248) and bringing another portion to a thick, viscous sweetness up in the high 250s or even low 260s.
The community of San Juan Chivite is based entirely within a 180-hectare cacao farm, abandoned by its owner during the terrible Guatemalan civil war in the 1980’s and handed over in 1985 to the 65 families who were former workers of the farm. In 2002, the families converted a portion of the farm that was formally coffee over to cacao, and as the community has grown from 64 to 125 families today, cacao cultivation remains the source of over 90% of the community’s income.
The village and farms are accessible only by swinging bridge over the wide, rushing Cahabón river; to sell cacao, association members carry 100-lb sacks over the bridge on their backs. In 2016, chocolate maker Goodnow Farms invested a donation into ASOCHIVITE, enabling them to construct the village’s first centralized fermentery and drying decks, and sparking catalytic growth and development in the region including the installation of electricity for the village in late 2016. The association earned organic certification in 2016 and in collaboration with Cacao Verapaz exported its first lots in the same year.
On the Behmor I would suggest P1 as your starting point and roast at least 16 minutes. The longer and deeper you go the more you will develop and round out the citric marmelade character.
The drum roasting profile I used for the evaluation sample was 12:45/15:15/20:15 @ 256 F. I didn't go as high on this keeping intact the vibrant fresh tang. You can certainly take it to a higher EOR for a bit of taming and enrichment of the profile.