Origin: Mexico - Chiapas
Type:Criollo/Trinatario (based off color)
Certifications: Direct Trade
Harvest Year: 2019
The chocolate is sweet, tangy and savory with delicate nutty aromas. My very first impression of this is a blend of cashew and peanut butter wrapped up in the butteriness of a milk chocolate. It is truly a delight to eat with nuanced notes of sweet and savory. The nibs are a mix of light and dark hinting at lighter Criollo stock and so the somewhat delicate nature of these beans is not surprising.
There is very little astringency nor bitterness. The same goes for fruit. Aside from a little in the aroma I don’t find any here. Instead there is nut. Soft alluring nuts. The lack of bitterness and astringency gives the heightened impression of natural sweetness and with just a little acidity keeps the whole profile from being boring and instead makes in enticing instead.
This makes a phenomenal not dark dark chocolate but would clearly make wonderfully round milk chocolate also.
The Chiapanecan origin comes from Soconusco from a cooperative named Organización de Productores de Cacao Sostenible Rayén founded in 2016. The core “group” consists of around 30 members. With the help of the University of they are devoted to the rescue of the heirloom varieties of local cacao under threat by the introduction of highly productive and pest-resistant “clones” as is the case in most cacao growing countries. They do so by researching the varieties already present in their lots (which can be over a hundred years old) and by propagating the ones that are more productive/ tastier / healthier. Cacao in the region is typically a polyculture: in the cacao orchards you can find other fruits such as mamey, lemon, coconuts, pineapples, mangoes; timber-yielding trees (shade trees of the cacaos) like ceibas and cedars and tropical flowers, among them hibiscus, ginger and heliconias. Cacao is organically grown, however not certified as such (too expensive).
With the really light bitterness and astringency, plus the nut component, you are not going to want to take this to a really high end of roast temperature or you are likely to make the nut bitter. Mid 250s are fine and high 240s are ok. That does NOT mean you have to roast it super delicate though. 2.25-3.0 minutes in the development phase will do great. Just pull the roast when it starts to get sharp and expect it a little earlier than some beans.
In the Behmor 1600 2-2.5 lbs for 18-19 minutes is fine. Just watch for the sharp ending.
The specific profile I used on to evaluate this is 10/12.5/16.5 @ 248 F. I really slowed it down there at the end.
In the oven, follow my standard roasting profiles and pay attention to the nose. You may not get much chocolate or brownie aroma with this one.